And the best thing about New York city... could well be the coffee!
Arrived yesterday after a fab night with Jesse at the Green Mill jazz club in Chicago - where we got to sit in a groovey old style booth and listen to / watch a band called Swing Gitane (i think) which played a mix of swing, jazz and Spanish style guitar music - and consisted of 2 guitars, a piano accordian, double bass and violin. Tres cool.
The trip to NY was blah - the United Airlines computers were down at the Chicago airport and the check-in queue stretched the length of the terminal and then double backed on itself. Fortunately everything was working by the time I got to the top of the queue - with just enough time to get my boarding pass, have my carry-on luggage and shoes checked by security and get to the gate where they were just starting to board the plane. Arrived in NY about 2pm and was at the hostel by about 4pm.
I've managed to rearrange my bookings so I have 5 nights in the one hostel - which is basic but clean and sells Lavazza coffee - and for $30 a night I get bed, breakfast (bagels, afterall this is New York), linen and towels - and a share bathroom. This means I dont have to spend Sunday moving from one end of the city to the other - although I now miss out on staying in the East Village - but thems the breaks. .I decided today that I dont need to do everything possible in New York and rush around like a mad thing (when did I get this grown - up???). So I'm going for the immersion experience - and if I dont get to the top of the Empire State Building or on a ferry trip around the island, well it doesn't really matter (and besides I did all that in 1992!)
Yesterday I went for a walk through Central Park (the hostel is right next to the park) down to the Metropolitan Museum of Art (hereafter referred to as The Met), walking past people playing team baseball, walking their dogs, sunning themselves (its gloriously hot here! Three cheers for summer!), jogging in packs, a Shakespeare in the Park style performance and at least a half a dozen squirrels and all sorts of birds that I dont recognise. I had late lunch in a cafe on Madison Ave - and watched New York in peak hour traffic.
Today I again walked through Central Park to The Met (saw more squirrels and several tortoises in the park). Had brunch in another cafe on Madison - eggs benedict - which I have some strange notion are a very NY thing - but I could be making that up!. And then to The Met where I spent all day. And when I say all day I mean all day. I entered the building at about 11am and finally left about 7pm. I went on three separate one hour guided tours: American painting; Highlights of the Museum; Impressionism and Post Impressionism - as well as wandering aimlessly and with some purpose through the maze of the museum. And around every corner was another masterpiece - oh look there's Cabanel's Birth of Venus; Singer Sargent's Madame X, Manet's several paintings that used Victorine as his model; an authentic full size relocated Egyptian temple; a Caillebotte painting of river and bridge in France somewhere, Monets, Cezannes, Van Goghs, Whisters, Jean Beraud, Cassatt, Morisot, El Greco, Seurat, Jeff Koons.... the list is endless - and so seemingly is the collection. And I have all these photos of paintings which is silly because they will all be in books - but I somehow needed to have a photo - as a record of me and the painting being in the same room maybe...
And when I realised that I couldn't see everything in the one day that I wanted to, well I joined the museum. Normal admin prices are $20. Annual Membership if you live more than 200 k away is $50 - and it includes The Cloisters museum at the other end of town (normally $20 entrance) where I plan to go on Sunday morning. So all I have to do is drop in one more time and I am ahead - and they will be sending me a quarterly magazine!
Had a drink in the Cafe BAr at the Met this afternnoon - where $10 got me a beer, mixed olives, a seat overlooking the main hall and a string quartet playing classical music.
Had dinner tonight in a French bistro - onion tarte, salad, red wine and a decent cappuccino! Yay New York!
Other things that spring to mind:
I got "carded" (ie asked for ID) twice in Chicago!!! And I know they are extreme about underage drinking over here - but really! Actually I couldn't stop laughing!
I was stopped in the street here (NY) yesterday and asked for directions! Obviously my tactic for looking like I know where I am going is working!
And Johnny Depp was in Chicago filming a Probihition era Gangster movie - and we saw a street dressed up for the film - but sadly not Johnny himself!
I have photos - but will have to post them later, as my camera cord is upstairs. Hope everyone is well - and thanks for all the blog comments. Good to know that someone is reading!
Friday, May 30, 2008
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Three seasons and a whole lot of tourist-ing in three days
I have had the best time here in Chicago - New York is going to have to try hard to beat this - but then there is nothing like having a local (Hi Jesse!) to show you around and take you drinking in all these tiny neighbourhood bars and eating in great local restaurants. Thus far I've experienced summer (hot, humid and cloudy on Monday); winter (at least by my standards yesterday - Tuesday - 8 C, icy winds, cloudy, breath fogging as it left my mouth - and me blessing the jumper, polar fleece, scarf and beret and wishing for gloves) and today Spring with a cold start and then reaching 20 C with clear blue skies!
Tonight Jesse and I are off to listen to jazz at the Green Mill, this morning I went on an architectural highlights tour and saw buildings by Frank Lloyd Wright (the Robie House) and Mies van der Rohe, as well as some more glorious art deco buildings - and 1990s post modern deco style stuff ("echo deco"), the Jesse and I had lunch in a groovey Newtown-y neighbourhood, and walked back to her place - which is just a little north west of The Loop.
Yesterday in the freezing cold we did the Untouchables Gangster Tour (cheesy but lots of fun & complete with Godfather music and the sound of 1920s machine guns), visited the museum at the RocknRoll McDonalds, ate in a local Italian restaurant, visited the cultural centre, met up with her friend Emily and had drinks at the Signature Lounge on the 96th floor of the Hancock building - with amazing views right across downtown Chicago. We also stopped by the American Girl doll shop - which has to be seen to be believed... We had dinner in a fab little diner and then ended up in a local bar in what looked like a gutted old house.
And that's not evening mentioning the afternoon we spent at the Art Institute of Chicago - and hay! I got to see Seurat's Sunday on the Grand Jatte, Hopper's Nighthawks, Grant Wood's American Gothic - and lots of other great paintings by Winslow Homer, Modigliani, Mary Cassatt, John Singer Sargent, Degas, Monet, Manet...
Tonight Jesse and I are off to listen to jazz at the Green Mill, this morning I went on an architectural highlights tour and saw buildings by Frank Lloyd Wright (the Robie House) and Mies van der Rohe, as well as some more glorious art deco buildings - and 1990s post modern deco style stuff ("echo deco"), the Jesse and I had lunch in a groovey Newtown-y neighbourhood, and walked back to her place - which is just a little north west of The Loop.
Yesterday in the freezing cold we did the Untouchables Gangster Tour (cheesy but lots of fun & complete with Godfather music and the sound of 1920s machine guns), visited the museum at the RocknRoll McDonalds, ate in a local Italian restaurant, visited the cultural centre, met up with her friend Emily and had drinks at the Signature Lounge on the 96th floor of the Hancock building - with amazing views right across downtown Chicago. We also stopped by the American Girl doll shop - which has to be seen to be believed... We had dinner in a fab little diner and then ended up in a local bar in what looked like a gutted old house.
And that's not evening mentioning the afternoon we spent at the Art Institute of Chicago - and hay! I got to see Seurat's Sunday on the Grand Jatte, Hopper's Nighthawks, Grant Wood's American Gothic - and lots of other great paintings by Winslow Homer, Modigliani, Mary Cassatt, John Singer Sargent, Degas, Monet, Manet...
Chicago, gangsters, galleries and the search for a decent coffee...
Yesterday it was 8 C, the day before it was 27 C - today it looks like tops of 14C. This place is seriously confused with its weather.
Having a great time with Jesse - have been to the Art Institute of Chicago, down the Down Town Deco walking tour, had a drink on the 96th floor of the Hancock building, been on the gangster tour - and about to head out on an architectural highlights tour - including Frank Lloyd Wright's Robie House. And yay! had two decent coffees yesterday...
Having a great time with Jesse - have been to the Art Institute of Chicago, down the Down Town Deco walking tour, had a drink on the 96th floor of the Hancock building, been on the gangster tour - and about to head out on an architectural highlights tour - including Frank Lloyd Wright's Robie House. And yay! had two decent coffees yesterday...
Sunday, May 25, 2008
Chicago
And now I'm in Chicago and its still only Sunday! Arrived this afternoon after an early start in Vancouver. You get to clear US customs & immigration at Vancouver airport - which made it easy at the Chicago end - but hey! I wasn't expecting to be fingerprinted or have my photo taken before 7am...
Spent the afternoon here mostly just wandering around - walked through Millenium Park, past the Art Institute of Chicago (love the lions guarding the place, shame about the Caillebotte...), along the shore line of Lake Michigan to Navy Pier - which is a bit like Cicular Quay and Luna Park rolled into one. And thousands of people everywhere. It's a long weekend here (Memorial Day tomorrow - sounds a bit like ANZAC Day) and it's warm and sort of sunny. I went on a 30 minute lake cruise, drank the largest and weakest cappuccino I have ever encountered (I think it was just hot milk...) and visited the Smith Museum of Stained Glass - which has all sorts of rescued stained glass windows and doorways ranging from late 19th C to the ultra-comtemporary. Even had examples by Louis Comfort Tiffany.
Back at the hostel now - and planning on a quiet night in and a long long long sleep - I think jetlag is starting to catch up with me. Talked to Jesse briefly on my new mobile (yay! I can use it!!!)
Saturday, May 24, 2008
We saw a bear!!!!
We went up the Sea to Sky highway today, had a great day exploring Whistler, walking along trails next to lakes and snow capped mountains - just a gorgeous day today too - at least 25C. I am even slightly sunburnt...
and on the way home we saw a bear!!!!
Vancouver
Vancouver
Here is a random selection of photos from yesterday... [Lea you may have created a monster]
Here is a random selection of photos from yesterday... [Lea you may have created a monster]
Made it! and stayed awake all day yesterday, after arriving early morning in Vancouver and being met by Sandy at the airport in the v.VFC - yay Yates and hello classic red porsche - good thing I packed light
!
!
We spent the day exploring Vancouver - walked all around the seawall and beach area at English Bay, caught a minature ferry across the harbour to Granville Markets, saw a otter(!!!!!) at the edge of a bay, explored Stanley Park and looked at totem poles and had dinner at a fab restaurant near where Sandy and Lou live in Deep Cove, North Vancouver. I had wild spring salmon! Sandy's house has a view across the bay and lots of trees (its sooo green here) and a national park in her back garden. Truly beautiful.
This morning we took the dogs for a walk through the park and any minute we are about to head up to Whistler for the day. Tonight Lou has promised to cook me cedar plank salmon. And can I just say - the raspberries at the moment are plentiful, cheap and delicious!
And you thought all I was going to do was look at paintings in art galleries!
And you thought all I was going to do was look at paintings in art galleries!
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Sydney Airport
OK - so its 8:20am and here I am at Sydney Airport - through Customs & Immigration and officially out of the country, if still on land. And who would have thought - my shoes set of the alarm detector and had to go through the x-ray machine.
Allow me to brag. I was a) at the airport before the check-in desks for my flight had even opened and b) my backpack weighed a total of 10.5 kilos! All that packing, unpacking, repacking seemed to have worked... although I have no idea what actually made the final cut. Nothing like surprises on holiday!
Good thing they didn't weigh my carry-on. Possession might be a great novel for a long flight but it also weighs a tonne.
At least an hour til I board. I have bought water to take on the flight - $2.50 from the vending machine or $3.50 from the shop, I have looked at duty free goodies and not bought anything despite a high pitch sales attack from the woman at the Yves Saint Laurent makeup booth, I have read trashy magazines without purchasing and now I am about to walk around the lounge a dozen times.
Allow me to brag. I was a) at the airport before the check-in desks for my flight had even opened and b) my backpack weighed a total of 10.5 kilos! All that packing, unpacking, repacking seemed to have worked... although I have no idea what actually made the final cut. Nothing like surprises on holiday!
Good thing they didn't weigh my carry-on. Possession might be a great novel for a long flight but it also weighs a tonne.
At least an hour til I board. I have bought water to take on the flight - $2.50 from the vending machine or $3.50 from the shop, I have looked at duty free goodies and not bought anything despite a high pitch sales attack from the woman at the Yves Saint Laurent makeup booth, I have read trashy magazines without purchasing and now I am about to walk around the lounge a dozen times.
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Monday, May 12, 2008
Shame about the Caillebotte
AKA as the one painting I really really really wanted to see in Chicago (Gustave Caillebotte's Paris Street, Rainy Day (1875)) will be on its way to Fort Worth Texas while I am there... Bugger.
Still there will be plenty to see elsewhere - and I've discovered that the study/sketch for it is at the Musee Marmotten in Paris. So I can squint and pretend I've seen the real thing. And I guess I can always go back to Chicago another year. And while in Paris I will be able to view at leisure The Floor Scrapers (1875). Annoyingly for me (but for some very lucky people) most Caillebottes appear to be in private collections...
Anyway, ten days til I leave (23 May 08) and head off into the sunrise towards Vancouver and Sandy, then on to Chicago and Jesse and then to New York - where I am hoping Shelley & Craig will be able to fly down from Ottawa for a catch-up! Then its London (and catching up with Naomi), Glasgow for Mackintoshing and possibly a formal visit to colleagues at the School of Art Library; Paris, Madrid (Hola! Buenos Dias!), San Sebastian, Frankfurt, Singapore (and hello Elizabeth Armstrong!) then home - and back to work on Monday 30 June.
And because I am practicing uploading photos from my camera - so I can post some while I am OS and then you can all see how much fun I am having - here's a photo of my packing so far & a shot of Gus.
Still there will be plenty to see elsewhere - and I've discovered that the study/sketch for it is at the Musee Marmotten in Paris. So I can squint and pretend I've seen the real thing. And I guess I can always go back to Chicago another year. And while in Paris I will be able to view at leisure The Floor Scrapers (1875). Annoyingly for me (but for some very lucky people) most Caillebottes appear to be in private collections...
Anyway, ten days til I leave (23 May 08) and head off into the sunrise towards Vancouver and Sandy, then on to Chicago and Jesse and then to New York - where I am hoping Shelley & Craig will be able to fly down from Ottawa for a catch-up! Then its London (and catching up with Naomi), Glasgow for Mackintoshing and possibly a formal visit to colleagues at the School of Art Library; Paris, Madrid (Hola! Buenos Dias!), San Sebastian, Frankfurt, Singapore (and hello Elizabeth Armstrong!) then home - and back to work on Monday 30 June.
And because I am practicing uploading photos from my camera - so I can post some while I am OS and then you can all see how much fun I am having - here's a photo of my packing so far & a shot of Gus.
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